Cinnamon

While the genus Cinnamomum includes many species, the industry distinguishes sharply between Cinnamomum verum (Ceylon or "true" cinnamon) and the four species collectively known as "cassia." Ceylon cinnamon, native to Sri Lanka, is prized for its subtle, aromatic profile and its crumbly, multi-layered texture. It uses only the thin inner bark, whereas its thicker relatives use all layers of the bark, resulting in a woodier, more intense spice.

Because Ceylon cinnamon is more expensive, "cassia" (primarily from China, Indonesia, and Vietnam) dominates international commerce. This leads to frequent counterfeiting, where cheaper cassia is labeled as authentic Ceylon. Beyond flavor, the distinction is chemical: cassia contains significantly higher levels of coumarin, a compound that can be problematic in high doses, while "true" cinnamon contains only trace amounts.

For over a thousand years, the source of cinnamon was a closely guarded trade secret in the Mediterranean. Arab traders, seeking to protect their status as sole suppliers, told Greek and Roman historians that the spice was guarded by winged serpents or collected from the nests of "cinnamon birds" that built their homes on unreachable cliffs. These fictions allowed traders to command exorbitant prices; in ancient Rome, a pound of cinnamon could cost the equivalent of 50 months' wages for a laborer.

This veil of mystery only began to lift in the 13th century when explorers finally identified Sri Lanka as the primary source. The discovery triggered centuries of colonial conflict as Portuguese, Dutch, and British forces successively seized control of the island to monopolize the "shores full of cinnamon" that could famously be smelled from eight leagues out to sea.

Unlike spices derived from seeds or fruit, cinnamon is a literal tube of processed bark. The trees are cultivated for two years and then "coppiced"—cut to the ground—to trigger the growth of about a dozen new shoots from the roots. Once these shoots are harvested, the outer bark is scraped away, and the inner bark is beaten with a hammer to loosen it from the wood.

The resulting strips of inner bark are only 0.5 mm thick. As they dry in a warm, ventilated environment, they naturally curl into the familiar "quills." The quality of these quills is strictly graded by diameter; the finest grade, "Alba," is less than 6 mm thick, while lower grades can be more than five times that size.

While Western palates often associate cinnamon primarily with "cinnamon sugar" on toast or in apple pies, it is a foundational savory ingredient across Asia and the Middle East. It is one of the "four sibling spices" essential to Malay cuisine and a primary aromatic in Persian thick soups and stews. In Mexico, cinnamon is the defining characteristic of traditional chocolate preparation, providing a spicy heat that differs from European styles.

Chemically, the spice is dominated by cinnamaldehyde, which accounts for 90% of its essential oil. This compound is highly volatile and decomposes in high heat or humidity, which is why Ceylon cinnamon—the most delicate variety—loses much of its nuance during the long cooking processes of baking, whereas the more robust Chinese cassia excels in the oven.